60年的火候 煮出家的味道
Published on
09 Jan 2025
Published by
联合早报
“1960年代，我捧菜给顾客每个月90块工钱，还有帮别人泡茶，别人给小费，一天有七八块钱，一个月存下来有300多块。”张坤源回忆道。据他说，当时他每个月的房租是20元，扣掉房租后的钱听起来不少，但他需要养包括母亲和自己在内一家七口人，一点也不容易。
妻子离世 开启小贩第二人生
张坤源60多岁时，妻子患病离世，这对他打击不小。为了不让自己成天在家胡思乱想，他重新回到小贩生活，顶下一个档口，开了“好记煮炒”。
现在80岁的张坤源从早上10时就开档准备，送走了午餐食客就开始洗碗并为晚餐时段准备食材，直到将近晚上10时才熄灯，再从牛车水搭公交回家。他每周一休息，十年如一日，风雨不改。
记者访问了几位食客，发现不约而同出现的关键词是“家的味道”、“经济实惠”和“食物简单好吃”。的确，张坤源对自己的顾客像朋友也像家人，62元的总数他觉得收60元就好；成本超过2元的打包盒，他觉得收2元就可以了，熟客甚至还不用多付钱。对他来说，能维持生活的不仅是金钱，更多的是食客的认可和他对待生活的初心。
采访结束时，记者善意提醒，你已经不是23岁的小伙子而是80岁的老人家，别什么都亲力亲为时，他举起了双臂像个大力士，回应说“可以啦！”。这让记者从他80岁的眼神中，看到了23岁对人生的激情。
Source: 联合早报 © SPH Media Limited. Reproduced with permission.
Photo: 联合早报
Written By: 刘永健
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