North India: Celebrating Holi, solo female travel and a jaunt through colourful Rajasthan

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RAJASTHAN, India – Rajasthan may be known on social media for a few iconic images – deserts, camels and the red-and-pink facade of the Hawa Mahal – but there is much more to the northern Indian desert state.

 

On a nine-day trip in March, I discover festivals, historical architecture, folk music and a variety of landscapes.

 

India is not foreign to me, as I have been to south India many times to visit my grandparents. The country’s north, however, has remained unknown.

 

Landing in Delhi, my travel companion and I get our first sense of north India. The air carries a nostalgic scent of sand and petrol, which I recall from childhood. The billboards are tall and the buildings short.

 

The bulk of our trip is spent in India’s largest state, Rajasthan. Home to several cities known for their distinct vibrant hues and exquisite desert terrains, the state is an experience that keeps giving.

 

Here are three cities worth visiting.

 

1. Jaipur: It is terracotta, not pink

 

Jaipur is known as the pink city, but its hue is more of a rich mauve terracotta shade.

 

The colour had its origins as a mark of hospitality. In 1876, Jaipur’s ruler Maharaja Ram Singh painted the whole city in that shade to welcome the Prince of Wales and Queen Victoria on an official visit.

 

The following year, the queen of Jaipur became a fan of the palette and convinced the king to pass a law that all future buildings must be painted the same hue, a decree that still remains.

 

Hawa Mahal (admission: 200 rupees or S$3.20), or Palace of the Winds, is the most well-known pink monument.

 

The palace, built in 1799, has 953 latticed windows known as jharokhas to allow royal women to watch processions on the street without being noticed.

 

The entrance is tucked behind the monument, beside the entrance gates of the Jaipur City Palace.

 

Inside, one can climb all five storeys, each with its own praying area and purpose. Looking out from the colourful jharokhas made me wonder what life was like for royal women then.

 

For the best views, head across the street to Wind View Cafe (str.sg/i5k3), which has an outdoor terrace that overlooks the palace.

 

If you are not ordering anything, a tip of about 50 rupees is expected.

 

Alternatively, there are tattoo studios nearby on the same level which allow photo-taking on their terraces for a tip.

 

Amer Fort, also known as Amber Palace, sports a different hue.

 

Once the residence of the Rajput rulers, this red sandstone fort features expansive courtyards, ornate wall mosaics, hand-painted ceilings and opulent mirrored halls.

 

From the drop-off point on the main road, it is a 15-minute uphill walk on sandy slopes to get to the entrance of the fort.

 

Elephant rides cost 1,000 rupees for two people, but most visitors go on foot.

 

Admission cost 500 rupees and a complete visit around the fort should take around 90 minutes.

 

Also, visit Panna Meena stairwell, a 10-minute walk away. Built in the 16th century, the zig-zags are a combination of Indian architecture and engineering, but tread carefully as there are no safety barriers.

 

As dusk approaches, head to Nahargarh Fort (admission: 200 rupees), Jaipur’s best sunset viewpoint. The fort, built for defence, was also a retreat for the royal family.

 

Make a shopping stop at Johri Bazaar, which teems with handmade souvenirs and loud insistent touting. Be prepared to bargain at these wholesale shops.

 

I buy block-print curtains, quilts and cotton dresses for about 55 per cent of the quoted price by bargaining relentlessly.

 

Rajasthan is vibrant on its own, but Holi, the festival of colours that signifies the arrival of spring, adds another dimension.

 

Celebrations last two days, starting with the burning of bonfires in the chowks, or open courtyards, on the first evening. The next day, locals and tourists alike flood the streets and play with coloured powders.

 

Shops sell these powders by weight, and a medium-sized packet costs about 50 rupees.

 

Originally made from plant sources such as neem or turmeric, modern versions use synthetic substances such as copper sulphate and aluminium bromide to achieve brighter hues.

 

These can be hazardous in large amounts, so my Airbnb host makes organic versions in lighter colours for his young daughters to play with at home.

 

The locals do not hold back and you will likely wind up with colours smeared on your face or chucked over your head. They are not being aggressive – it is just Holi.

 

Wear old clothes, do not carry valuables and embrace the noise, mess and mayhem. Rubbing coconut oil on your hair and body before the experience makes it easier to remove the colours afterwards.

 

For a less overwhelming experience, hotels such as Khasa Kothi (str.sg/i5kZ) hold private parties for tourists, which I also attend.

 

The international, mostly English-speaking crowd makes it easy to make friends, and the vibe is inclusive – music includes English and South Korean hits, and there are sheltered seats for the elderly to rest.

 

Check out travel blogs or social media sites for other parties, or ask your Airbnb host for recommendations.

 

2. Udaipur: White jewel

 

Known as the Venice of India and renowned for its architectural landmarks, the lake city of Udaipur gleams white.

 

At the heart of the city is glittering Lake Pichola surrounding four tiny islands, each with an impressive building.

 

The two most popular ones are Jagat Niwas, a luxury hotel also known as Taj Lake Palace, and lake palace Jag Mandir, which houses manicured gardens and a restaurant.

 

Hop on a boat to both islands and spend a leisurely afternoon soaking in the view.

 

Jagdish Temple in Udaipur old city, with mediaeval carvings and marble structures, is a must-visit. It was built in 1652 in the Indo-Aryan architectural style by then ruler Maharana Jagat Singh and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Admission is free.

 

A short walk from the temple is Gangaur Ghat, a stairway leading to the banks of Lake Pichola. Photographers arrive well before sunset to bag a spot as the views are unbeatable, with the lake glittering in the sun.

 

Alternatively, take a sunset boat ride to Jagat Niwas or Jag Mandir island. The ride costs 120 rupees and lasts around 30 minutes.

 

Just beside the Gangaur Ghat is Bagore Ki Haveli, an old private palace that is now a museum. It hosts a traditional dance show which combines traditional Rajasthani folk music, dance and puppetry, and is performed under a tree in the palace courtyard.

 

The show takes place at 7pm daily and tickets cost 150 rupees a person, with an additional 100 rupees for photography in the courtyard.

 

Street food is plentiful in Udaipur and these items can be found at numerous eateries. Prices range from 40 to 80 rupees a serving.

 

Popular savoury snacks include pav bhaji, or bread buns with curry; and momos, or dumplings. Lassi is a filling yogurt-based beverage, and kulfi is a frozen dairy dessert similar to ice cream.

 

Also try dal bati churma, which is baked or fried wheat balls with lentils, priced at around 250 rupees.

 

3. Jodhpur: Truly blue

 

The blue city of Jodhpur is a four-hour drive north from Udaipur. Having parted ways with my friend, it is here that I embark on the solo leg of my trip.

 

Two hours in, after winding through the dangerously narrow hairpin bends of the Aravalli mountain range, my driver pulls over at the Ranakpur Jain temple.

 

Built in the 15th century by Jain businessman Seth Dharna with the help of ruler Maharaja Rana Kumbha, the temple is one of the most sacred and important pilgrimage sites for Jains, a major religion in India.

 

A structure of spiritual serenity in the middle of nowhere, it is truly a sight to behold. It took more than 50 years for the building to be completed – no surprise given its 1,440 or so pillars, all with distinct carvings.

 

Security personnel remind visitors to remain quiet, and within the temple, there is a sense of calm. Two hours here fly by.

 

Entry is from noon to 5pm and costs 200 rupees, with an extra 100 rupees for each camera.

 

Jodhpur is close to the Thar desert, but the city is a sea of blue. Some say its buildings were painted blue to keep the city cool, while others think the hue is associated with the history of Lord Shiva.

 

Many hotels here market a rooftop terrace with unhindered views of the blue city and its winding alleyways, which also make for a popular Instagram backdrop.

 

Jodhpur’s main attraction is the sprawling Mehrangarh fort. Within it are several galleries and palaces with exquisite designs.

 

Inside, there are glimpses of royal life in the past.

 

As I enter via one of the seven gates, I stumble upon the Sati stone where there are small handprints, said to be left by the wives of the late maharaja before they immolated themselves on his funeral pyre.

 

Admission costs 400 rupees. Plan to spend around an hour here.

 

About a 10-minute walk away from the fort is Jaswant Thada (admission: 30 rupees). An empty sepulchre made with carved sheets of white marble, it holds paintings related to the Mewar empire, a former kingdom.

 

The fort overlooks a lake where you can rest your legs and catch folk music performances by locals.

 

In the heart of Jodhpur, there are many affordable eateries.

 

A famous omelette shop (str.sg/i5ko) recommended by Lonely Planet and Tripadvisor turns out to be a simple roadside stall with a menu ranging from egg toast (40 rupees) to jumbo maharaja omelette (150 rupees).

 

I try the masala butter cheese omelette for 50 rupees and find it a little too greasy, but recommend the boiled eggs dry-fried in spicy masala (30 rupees), which is unique.

 

Opposite the Ghanta Ghar or clock tower in the old city is Shri Mishrilal Hotel (str.sg/i53f).

 

Pop in for a treat of rabdi (45 rupees), thickened milk with layers of cream decorated with nuts and cardamom; and makhaniya lassi (45 rupees) or a saffron-flavoured yogurt-based beverage.

 

Made fresh, the portions are huge and the texture is a lot thicker compared with those I have in other cities.

 

A Jodhpur monument that skyrocketed to fame in recent years is the Umaid Bhawan Palace (str.sg/i5kJ), where American singer Nick Jonas and Indian actress Priyanka Chopra got married in a lavish three-day wedding in 2018.

 

Still the residence of the namesake Jodhpur royal family, part of the palace has been converted into a luxury hotel.

 

Members of the public can drop by for a meal or photo-taking at the hotel’s courtyards and restaurants, and there is a heritage museum within the palace that costs 100 rupees to enter.

 

Tips

 

The fastest route from Singapore to any of these three cities is an 11- to 13-hour flight with a four-hour transit in major Indian cities such as Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai or Bangalore.

 

A round trip costs between $520 and $650 from May to September on budget carrier IndiGo, which includes 30kg of check-in baggage.

 

Peak season for Rajasthan is between April and September, when tourist activities such as desert safaris and camel rides are bustling. Avoid the winter months of October to December when temperatures can fall to around 10 deg C.

 

Within Rajasthan, one-way domestic flights on IndiGo cost between $100 and $150, including check-in baggage.

 

Alternatively, take a cab between cities, which are three to four hours apart on a drive across varying landscapes.

 

A four-hour taxi ride should cost between 5,000 and 6,500 rupees, including toll and state taxes (check if these are included before setting out). Your hotel should be able to help with bookings.

 

India’s ride-hailing app, Ola (www.olacabs.com/mobile), is good for booking autos (motorised rickshaws) within the old cities, but its reliability varies.

 

When I am in Jaipur, it works fine, with rides costing around 75 rupees for a 15-minute trip. In Udaipur, however, many drivers call to haggle for a higher price or keep cancelling trips.

 

Online payments have not caught on in Rajasthan and I do not see many ATMs across all three cities. Change money in Singapore or at the airport when you arrive.

 

Take along medication in case of stomach upsets and stick to bottled water for drinking (and, if you prefer, for brushing teeth). I eat my fair share of street food and do not have any issues, but it is best to be prepared.

 

Get food from popular stalls where the turnover is fast so your food is fresh.

 

Also, dress modestly. Most tourist destinations are cultural sites and places of worship which require your arms and knees to be covered.

 

Some temples require females to cover their heads, so take along a shawl or get one locally. Wear sandals that can be removed easily for temple visits.

 

I dress mostly in long Indian kurta tops and cotton pants, paired with a colourful shawl.

 

Tourist destinations usually have a crowd of guides at the entrance offering their services for a fee, though the quality varies – some tend to rattle off the history and significance of the place, and hurry visitors along.

 

Ask for an official guide at the ticket counter instead, or opt for an audio guide to explore at your own pace.

 

I stay in Airbnb homes throughout the trip and have a very local and comfortable experience in all of them. Clean, well-furnished double rooms cost between $30 and $40 a night.

 

In Jaipur, for instance, I stay in a large room in a heritage building in the middle of the old city (str.sg/i5kU).

 

My host Raghu and his family are very hospitable, and I enjoy the daily homemade breakfasts.

 

Well-reviewed boutique hotels range from $50 to $175 a night on platforms such as Booking.com.

 

Cheaper rooms are no-frills yet clean, while the higher end of the price range gets you more luxurious digs decked out in traditional Indian or colonial decor.

 

During my three-day solo stint in Jodhpur, I feel safe most of the time, thanks to helpful locals and the widespread usage of English. Hindi is the country’s official language.

 

Keep your wits about you and be street-smart, and most travellers should have no trouble.

 

• Travel lover Vanitha Maniarasu is an audience growth specialist at The Straits Times.
• On The Road is a series on the freedom of road and rail journeys. For more travel stories, go to str.sg/travel.

 

 

Source: The Straits Times © SPH Media Limited. Reproduced with permission.

 

 

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