Weekend Trip: Charoenkrung is Bangkok’s newest cool neighbourhood

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BANGKOK – Like the many Singaporeans who throng sprawling Chatuchak Market, upscale shopping district Siam and wholesale Platinum Fashion Mall (hauling along empty luggage for their loot), I too cannot stay away from Bangkok for too long.

 

The public transport system feels familiar and I mentally convert baht to the Singapore dollar with ease. 

 

Bangkok, ever-changing, always gives tourists a reason to return.

 

In 2018, I wrote about under-the-radar markets. Some have since closed, while new ones such as Jodd Fairs, near Phra Ram 9 MRT station, have sprung up. 

 

There are plenty more ground-up attractions, as Bangkok pulses with capital city energy. Like London or New York, people from all over the country come to seek their fortunes in the heart of Thailand. At a pop-up design market outside the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC), artists from Chiang Mai in the north, and even Taiwan, have come to hawk their creations. 

 

TCDC, located at the Grand Postal Building, is part of the Charoenkrung area – Bangkok’s latest buzzy neighbourhood.

 

It is a historic-turned-hip district, where old buildings, such as a soya sauce factory, have been repurposed into art galleries, office spaces and an indoor skate park, Jump Master Skate Haus. 

 

Sleek coffee joints with beans from around the country sit next to old-school silver shops. Turn the corner past old car mechanics and you will find artisanal tea room Citizen Tea Canteen, its mosaic-tiled shopfront begging to be photographed.

 

The neighbourhood is named after Charoenkrung Road, one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. It is located south of Chinatown, loosely bookended by Saphan Taksin BTS station and Wat Mangkon MRT station.

 

The latter, which opened in 2019, made the area more accessible – just a 15-minute ride from the downtown Sukhumvit area.

 

Set aside two days to explore the area fully. From bustling bars to delectable design, here is the best of what Charoenkrung has to offer.

 

Get inspired by art and design

 

Start at Central: The Original Store (centraltheoriginalstore.com), a lifestyle space that houses a bookshop, cafe, bar, restaurant, library and exhibition venue across five storeys.

 

Every building in this neighbourhood has decades of history and this one is no different.

 

It started out as a family business run by Chinese immigrants who came to Thailand in 1927. They ran a groceries and household goods store in Thonburi, a neighbourhood west of the Chao Phraya River, before moving to Chaoroenkrung in 1950. 

 

In a nod to the building’s heritage, the retail library on the second floor is named for its collection of books meant to unlock business know-how, with sections on marketing, architecture, visual merchandising and public relations.

 

A library day pass costs 200 baht (S$7.75), but you can walk in for free to check out the exhibition by Thai artist Nattawat Rasikriangkrai (@jo_ji_art on Instagram), whose paintings depict the romantic and caring nature of rugged men.

 

Before you leave, grab a map on the first floor that highlights other notable shops nearby.

 

This is how I discover Siam Bronze Factory (siambronzefactory.com) a few doors down, which sells homeware and cutlery handmade from bronze and stainless steel in Ayutthaya, about 80km north of Bangkok.

 

The utensils here are hefty and solid, the sort that elevate a dinner party. Designs are varied and prices are about 20 per cent lower than at River City Bangkok mall. 

 

Nearby, the Grand Postal Building Bangkok’s Brutalist architecture houses a still-working post office and the Thailand Creative and Design Centre (tcdc.or.th), which hosts events throughout the year.

 

During my visit, one exhibition showcases Thailand’s burgeoning craft alcohol industry, where I learn that, true to the country’s produce, rice and sugarcane are the two main ingredients distilled into spirits.

 

There are surprising ones too, such as spirits made from mangosteen, banana and pineapple. 

 

No samples are available, unfortunately, but some of these are available at duty-free store King Power at Suvarnabhumi Airport.

 

Other exhibits, part of Bangkok Design Week, reimagine food waste, such as egg, oyster and crab shells, as pastel-hued, terrazzo-inspired homeware. The place mats, coasters and hanging lights would not look out of place in a Scandinavian-inspired apartment. 

 

Shutterbugs, stop by Fotoclub BKK (fotoclubbkk.com) to pick up film or develop negatives, and browse the collection of photo books on display.

 

And do not miss out on Warehouse 30 (warehouse30.com), a series of abandoned warehouses transformed into art galleries, shops and cafes.

 

Horse Unit and Woot Woot Store sells vintage military clothes and accessories. While prices are steeper than at your usual thrift store, it is worth a browse as you might stumble on surprising items such as a pair of vintage parachutes, as I did. Were these ever used? Did this silk-like material really cushion a paratrooper’s fall to the ground? The intrigue is part of the fun.

 

Check out 333 Gallery, currently showing local artist Inson Wongsam’s Infinite Ride exhibition. With sculptures and colourful, abstract paintings, think of it as a greatest hits collection of the 88-year-old artist, who travelled to Italy on a scooter when he was 28 and has spent half his life working on art abroad.

 

Finish off with souvenir shopping at 30_6 Selected Store, with local products such as khao soi (coconut curry noodle) flavoured chocolate bars by Siamaya Chocolate (175 baht a bar). The spices are distinct and proffer a gentle heat. Delicious. 

 

Massive malls

 

If you visit only one mall in Charoenkrung, make it Iconsiam. Bangkok’s largest mall rises majestically over the Chao Phraya River. If you are feeling flush, the array of luxury and international brands will not disappoint. 

 

For more casual shoppers, make your way to the upper floors of the complex for stores such as Aland, which stocks South Korean labels. Also stop by the Apple store, which overlooks the river from its outdoor deck.

 

More of a foodie than a shopper? Iconsiam houses multiple outposts of popular eateries, including famous pad thai chain Thipsamai, whose flagship branch serves one of the best renditions of the dish I have eaten.

 

Tokyo franchise Ramen Bankara and Thai casual eatery Ros’niyom are also worth checking out. 

 

And look past the tourist kitsch of the basement foodcourt, styled after a floating market, for it houses an impressive array of street food. Prices are about 30 to 40 per cent higher than at markets, but it is worth it for the hygiene and air-conditioned comfort.

 

There are steaming pots of tom yum soup, river prawns the size of lobsters, oysters on ice, marinated raw seafood – too much to stomach in one sitting, but a feast for the eyes.

 

Get there before noon to beat the lunch crowd or be prepared to share tables, though the mood is convivial and diners eat quickly.

 

Expect to pay between 50 baht for snacks and 250 baht for a meal. To sample more food, ask for a half portion, even if it is not listed on the menu. Some vendors will be happy to oblige.

 

Free shuttle boats run from Sathorn and Si Phraya piers. River City Bangkok (rivercitybangkok.com), located at the latter, is also worth a visit with four floors of art galleries.

 

If any of that inspires you, pop into Soul Salt River City for a spot of art jamming. It costs 850 baht for a canvas and there is no time limit on the session.

 

But the best part has got to be digging your toes into the sand floor, painting in air-conditioned comfort while feeling like you are on a beach holiday. This is glorious, big-city excess and I love it.

 

Bar-hopping

 

Head to Soi Nana after dark. With a clutch of bars located along a 20m stretch, this is Bangkok’s best place for a grown-up bar crawl. From local honey to wet market produce, local ingredients feature heavily on cocktail menus.

 

Make a beeline for Asia Today Bar (@asia_today_bar on Instagram), featured in the Netflix series Midnight Asia (2022 to present). It has perhaps the area’s most Instagrammed drink called Eastern Honey (360 baht), a gin-based cocktail with sesame, wild honey, topped with honey foam and served in an adorable beeswax cup that is so cute, it looks edible. (A bartender emphatically tells me it is not – numerous cups have been ruined by patrons biting them.)

 

The menu showcases honey from around Thailand supplied by farms and bee hunters.

 

Sour honey from stingless bees in the country’s south pairs with bourbon or whiskey, while the work of Chiang Mai’s Asian honey bees goes into Rana is Real (440 baht), a dangerously light concoction of tequila, cucumber, passion fruit and coconut milk.

 

This is easy to drink, inviting stuff. But those looking for edgier flavours should head down the street to Tax (@tax_bar_bkk on Instagram). It was co-founded in 2020 by Niks Anuman-Rajadhon, who is also behind Asia Today Bar and Teens of Thailand, one of the early bars to open along Soi Nana.

 

Tax uses flavoured, drinking vinegars as the citrus element in its cocktails, a creative touch with an added benefit – vinegar is not subjected to alcohol taxes. Its owners created the concept as a response to heavy taxes on the alcohol industry, and what they felt was a lack of support from the government during the pandemic. 

 

“Nothing is certain but death and tax,” reads a sign outside the speakeasy-style entrance, a hidden door atop a flight of stairs in an alley. 

 

The mood is spiky, the drinks stellar. Shrimp (480 baht) incorporates lager vinegar, coffee, celery bitters and shrimp paste-infused coconut syrup in a rum-based cocktail that is complex and savoury-sweet. A betel leaf garnish adds a touch of bitterness. Each component is unexpected yet, together, the flavours work.

 

If I had time for only one bar in Soi Nana, Tax would be it.

 

In the mood for tunes? Stop by Tep Bar (tepmahanakhon.com), where a live band plays traditional Thai music and locals come to sing along. Get a table on the second floor if you are hoping to have a conversation, or downstairs by the band for the best view. The drinks are all right, but the vibe is a riot.

 

Mahaniyom Cocktail Bar (@mahaniyom.cocktailbar on Instagram), about 10 minutes away by road, is also worth a visit. English-speaking staff introduce their “resourceful cocktails” concept, where each drink is made from various parts of one ingredient.

 

The refreshing Pineapple (460 baht) uses housemade tepache, a fermented drink made from the fruit’s peel, pineapple cordial with green peppercorn and vermouth, a fortified wine, infused with tea made from pineapple leaves. Sounds like a mouthful, but goes down like a dream.

 

And I, a lover of savoury cocktails, have to try the two craziest concoctions on the menu. 

 

Cow (460 baht) is aromatic and rich, with beef fat on the nose, a sweet-tart brandy base, heat from black pepper and funky blue cheese foam as garnish. Like an indulgent piece of steak, it is delicious but better shared.

 

Squid (460 baht), meanwhile, is like a boozy, briny gazpacho. A base of vodka and mezcal pairs with clarified tomato juice, dashi stock and mirin, a sweet cooking wine. On top, a delicate suspension of squid ink mixed with sake. A work of art in a drink.

 

Stay

 

Asai Bangkok Chinatown, a two-minute walk from Wat Mangkon MRT station, is your best bet for exploring the Charoenkrung area. 

 

The three-star hotel is scant on amenities – no bedroom slippers; collect toothbrushes and cotton buds from the lobby if you need them – but makes up for it with a smart lobby bar that resembles a co-working space, with free filtered water on tap. Clean, modern rooms start from around $75 a night. Bonus points for the smart TV and large, firm pillows.

 

Looking for luxury? A host of new properties have opened since 2020, including The Standard Bangkok Mahanakhon, Capella Bangkok and Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok. 

 

I spend two glorious nights at the last one, ensconced from the traffic and clatter of the city, where my room on the 24th floor overlooks the lush Lumphini Park and I catch the sunset from my king-size bed. The hotel library, which opened in February, offers a similar view over afternoon tea. 

 

Start your day with the extensive buffet breakfast. It includes international, Japanese and Middle Eastern options. But the best items are decidedly local, such as nai ek roll noodle soup with meltingly tender meat, sweet young coconuts laid out on ice, and all the mango sticky rice I can eat. And there is yet more food next door at the upscale mall, Velaa Sindhorn Village.

 

The hotel is a 10-minute walk from Chit Lom BTS station – further than I would usually like, but the hotel shuttle whisks me there in a couple of minutes. Rooms start from about 11,400 baht.

 

Tips

 

Make bar and restaurant reservations via the Line app, which most businesses in Bangkok use. You can usually find their contacts on Facebook or Instagram. 

 

E-payments have caught on in Thailand, although some shops remain cash-only and others charge extra for credit card payments. 

 

In August 2022, The Straits Times reported that people from Singapore could scan Thai Promptpay QR codes to make payments via the DBS PayLah! and OCBC Pay Anyone apps. In my experience, this worked about only a third of the time, including for single-ticket purchases at BTS stations. It is useful to have some cash on hand.

 

For short hops, motorbike taxis are a convenient way to get around and are usually faster than taking a car, due to the city’s notorious traffic jams. Book these via the Grab or Bolt (str.sg/wvX8) apps.

 

Alternatively, motorbike taxi drivers wearing orange vests usually wait by the corner of busy roads. Negotiate your fare before setting out – it cost me between 20 and 40 baht for distances of 1 to 3km.

 

Masks, while not mandatory, are recommended on public transport. Most locals keep theirs on while commuting. 

 

• Weekend Trip is a series that looks at regional destinations through fresh eyes. For more travel stories, go to str.sg/travel

 

 

Source: The Straits Times © Singapore Press Holdings Limited. Reproduced with permission.

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