12 Christmas experiences in Germany worth braving the cold for
Published on
05 Dec 2022
Published by
The Straits Times
FRANKFURT – A puzzled German acquaintance once told me about his colleague in his company’s Singapore office. “She absolutely insisted on coming to Germany in December, even though I offered to fly to see her. Why? It’s so cold.”
But the chill of December, along with the prospect of snow, could have been the perfect reason for the Singaporean’s hoped-for trip to Germany.
Besides, Germany does Christmas so well.
Unlike in many other countries, the stores in Germany do not play commercialised jingles or make sales announcements all the time. And in December, you may catch The Nutcracker ballet, glamorous ice shows, choirs singing Handel or orchestras playing Bach.
The goose season in November sometimes spills into December, so you can go to a traditional German restaurant for roast goose.
Also, the Advent markets are postcard-pretty. Since this is the first post-Covid-19 Christmas, the markets probably will not be crammed with busloads of foreign visitors. Hopefully, the economic sanctions will not dim the lights too much. In any case, Germans love candles and bonfires.
So, here are 12 traditions to look forward to if you are planning a pre-Christmas trip to Germany.
1. Advent calendar
This calendar is a countdown to Christmas. Starting from Dec 1, you open one “door” of a boxed calendar every day to find a treat.
It is usually chocolate, but some calendars contain tea, cosmetics, small Lego toys or even short poems and stories. The prices of some calendars are reduced after the first week of December and will make nice presents.
2. Advent markets
The markets open on the fourth weekend before Christmas, meaning Nov 25 or 26 in 2022. City markets last the entire Advent season, which ends just before Christmas Day. But fairs in small towns or villages may open for just a day or two.
Heidelberg’s market glows romantically against its fortress-on-the-hill backdrop. The gorgeous mediaeval city of Regensburg has a market in the Old Town and another in the beautiful Thurn und Taxis Palace. Frankfurt even has a market on the rooftop of a multi-storey car park.
Nuremberg’s Christkindl market, one of the oldest in Germany, is famous for its child-friendly activities. Do not forget to look out for the golden ring on the fountain in the middle of the market – rubbing it supposedly makes your wishes come true.
3. Christmas tree
The focal point of every Advent market is the Christmas tree, which usually has a story associated with it. Is it harvested locally or has it come a long way from a twin city somewhere?
Frankfurters are notoriously critical of their tree and will discuss its height, origin and decorations thoroughly. They will have an opinion on whether it is too tall, too fat, too lopsided, too pink and so on.
4. Carousels
Advent markets have lovely wrought-iron merry-go-rounds. Some are several storeys high and filled with horses, coaches or vehicles of all sorts. It is absolutely fine to ride one even if you do not have a kid in tow.
There are also small decorative carousels such as Christmas pyramids with tiers of candles. The hot smoke from these candles pushes a propeller above to move the carousel.
Other decorations include carved angel figurines. These contain incense that is lit so that the little figures spew smoke. German folklore tells of how incense was used to chase away evil spirits that might inhabit a person’s home.
5. All things sweet
You will find chocolates, gummy bears and candy in the form of floss balls or stretchy strips, and, of course, Christmas cookies. It is a tradition to bake cookies at home and then exchange them with friends and colleagues.
At the supermarkets, pick up Christmas stollen, marzipan and candied nuts. Indulge yourself.
6. Lebkuchen
This is German gingerbread. It is also a sweet, but it deserves a mention of its own. The most famous brands are still genuinely made in Germany. Buy a lovely set with an assortment, perhaps inside a beautiful collectible tin. Some tins double as musical boxes.
I was stunned by how much baumkuchen and Panettone (Italian-style fruit cake) cost in Singapore. Lebkuchen is a reasonably priced alternative.
7. Cultural performances
Winter events abound, including Italian opera and classical ballet. Some of Europe’s best orchestras also perform on their home turf. Many Christmas markets will have performances too, such as those by the local school choir or brass band.
8. Heisse Maronen or roasted chestnuts
The chestnut man at the market will roast the nuts on-site and serve them in paper cones. First, let the chestnuts warm your hands, then remove your gloves to peel off the husks and eat. A blessed time.
9. Ice skating
Many cities or even small towns now have pop-up skating rinks. You will see stumbling beginners, but also graceful skaters who remind you of the Winter Olympics.
You will clash with other skaters, but that is fine. Everybody is good-natured about it. Skates can be rented.
10. Gluehwein
This is spiced mulled wine served hot, sometimes mixed with orange juice. There is a non-alcoholic version called Kinder punch.
You can get the spiced packets very cheaply in supermarkets and make your own for work or home parties. But it is a tradition to drink it at the Christmas market with friends and collect the Advent market cup of the year.
11. Advent wreath
This is a wreath with four candles. One candle is lit on each of the four Sundays before Christmas. You can buy these at garden centres, florists, supermarkets or the Advent markets.
You will see them in homes, offices, shops and even clinics and hospitals. Your hotel is bound to have one.
12. Sausages, kartoffel and apfelpuffer
Germany, truly, is the nation of sausages. Advent markets will serve their regional variety – Thueringer bratwurst (my favourite), springy frankfurters (the sausage, not the people), nuernbergers (small and short) or the spongy thick, white sausages of Bavaria.
If you are still hungry, wolf down a few kartoffel or apfelpuffer (potato or apple pancakes). They are palm-size, usually crispy on the outside but fluffy on the inside.
Frankfurt-based language professional Ming E. Wong has spent many Christmases in Germany and loves that its traditions often revolve around food. She reckons that you can’t take the Singaporean out of her.
Source: The Straits Times © Singapore Press Holdings Limited. Reproduced with permission.
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