5 things to do in Tangier, Morocco’s hidden gem

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TANGIER, Morocco – The coast of Spain lies just 14km from my balcony, while all of Africa is spread out behind me.

 

I am in Morocco’s port city Tangier, poised at the north-western tip of the country and continent. Here, I feel as though I am at the edge of two worlds.

 

Tangier sits at the crossroads of Africa and Europe, at the meeting point of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The cosmopolitan city has been a gateway between the two continents for centuries, ferrying travellers, conquerors, literary luminaries and even spies.

 

Even so, Tangier is a relatively laid-back coastal town, compared with the frenetic energy of popular cities such as Marrakech and Fes. Here, you will find a gentler introduction to Morocco’s charms, with the Rif Mountains as a backdrop and a calm yet colourful medina in the forefront, as well as an alluring cafe culture worth lingering for.

 

Most travellers take Tangier as a transit town on their way to Instagram-famous blue city Chefchaouen, two hours away by road. You can also drive along the Mediterranean Coast, from Tangier to coastal towns Tetouan and Al Hoceima, with beautiful vistas at every stop. 

 

And Africa’s first high-speed train line, the Al Boraq (https://str.sg/wCLD), connects Tangier with transportation nodes such as capital city Rabat and economic hub Casablanca in two hours – with tickets about 150 dirhams or S$20 – making Tangier a great base for exploring the country.

 

But I prefer to linger, spending three days here in November for a relaxing stay. Here are some highlights of this beautiful city.

 

1. Grand Socco

 

Start at the iconic Grand Socco, Tangier’s palm-shaded main square. It is officially called Place du 9 Avril 1947, commemorating the day former Moroccan king Sultan Muhammed V gave a stirring speech there, calling for the nation’s independence from colonial rule.

 

At the time, Morocco was under French and Spanish protectorates, with Tangier designated as an international zone that was governed by various European nations, the United States and Morocco.

 

Back in the day, the Grand Socco was the largest market in town, filled with vegetable and livestock sellers, snake charmers and storytellers. Though nowhere near the bustling market it once was, you will still find vendors selling fruit and second-hand trinkets. Various small cafes also line the square. 

 

The surrounding roads lead to various points of interest.

 

To the east, the knotted alleyways of Tangier’s medina beckon. To the south is the Tangier American Legation Museum (admission: 50 dirhams, go to legation.org), America’s only national monument outside the US. It is now a museum and cultural centre for the study of Morocco and Morocco–US relations, with paintings and a research library housed in an elaborate Moorish-style building.

 

For an authentic and reasonably priced breakfast nearby, head to local hangout Bab Al Madina Restaurant-Muwaileh Sharjah (str.sg/wCLA) and order a few baghrirs and msemmens (Moroccan pancakes and flatbread) at four dirhams each. Top them with honey, butter, cheese or ham.

 

2. Medina

 

I make my way into Tangier’s medina, founded seven centuries ago and recently spruced up. Inside, merchants sell fish fresh from the bay, buckets of olives, rows of babouche flat slippers, ornate kaftan dresses, fragrant spices, stacks of tangerines and more.

 

The aroma of grilled sardines and freshly baked khobz bread, a Moroccan staple, wafts through the alleyways.

 

I follow Rue Siaghine, the main pedestrian way that connects the Grand Socco with a smaller square, Petit Socco. This stretch is the focal point for souvenir hunters and in Morocco, bargaining is expected – even welcomed. 

 

Eventually, I pause in Petit Socco for mint tea, the country’s beverage of choice, at one of the many cafes surrounding the square. Cafes there hawk a similar menu of coffee, tea and fruit juices, so pick one with vacant seats. A pot of tea costs about 15 dirhams.

 

A big part of Tangier’s medina remains residential. Unlike the hundreds of boutique riads – traditional houses turned hotels – in Marrakesh or Fes, here there is a lived-in vibe to the medina, with some alleyways opening out to residential courtyards. 

 

For a splendid stay, check into the Palais Zahia Hotel and Spa (1,200 dirhams a night with breakfast; go to palais-zahia.com), a beautifully refurbished riad turned into a hotel and restaurant. Even if you are not a guest, make the two-minute walk from Petit Socco to check out the building’s vibrant colours and architecture. 

 

Restaurant Kebdani (https://str.sg/wCLR) is another popular spot that offers authentic Moroccan fare such as grilled fish and meat tagines, or stew, at the heart of the old town. My simmering pot of lamb tagine with prunes and apricots (140 dirhams) is sweet, savoury and buttery soft.

 

Soak up the delicious lamb stew with some crusty bread.  The couscous topped with sweetened cinnamon and raisins (80 dirhams) is a comforting hit as well.

 

3. Kasbah

 

On the northern corner of the medina is the Kasbah, a citadel that overlooks the rest of Tangier and the Strait of Gibraltar. The ancient fortification was once part of the city’s defences and is still mostly intact.

 

Standing in the courtyard of the Kasbah, you will find the Dar el Makhzen, a palace-turned-museum that once belonged to Sultan Moulay Ismail. Inside, you will see the former palace restored in all its glory, complete with exquisite mosaics, as well as works of art from across the country.

 

On the other side of the courtyard is Bab Al-Bahr (door to the sea), a giant doorway that frames the Spanish town of Tarifa like a postcard. The balcony at Bab Al-Bahr also offers a bird’s-eye view of the port below and Morocco’s first urban marina, the Tanja Marina Bay.

 

Below, the Bay of Tangier has a beach and corniche sweeping eastwards, and is often filled with families and couples basking in the Mediterranean sunshine.  

 

Located just outside the Kasbah, on the west side of the old town, is the stepped terraces of Cafe Hafa (@cafehafa on Instagram), a Tangier institution and a mesmerising place to catch the sunset with a cup of sweet Moroccan mint tea (15 dirhams) and grilled peanuts (seven dirhams).

 

This outdoor cafe is packed in the evenings with both locals and tourists playing cards and listening to music. If you prefer a quieter experience, go in the morning.

 

4. Perdicaris Park

 

Flag a taxi to the 70ha Perdicaris Park (str.sg/wCLm). This park is home to exotic flora and fauna from across the world, and boasts some of North Africa’s most beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean.

 

You will find here South African honey flowers, white trumpets from the Himalayas, Australian eucalyptus trees and more. The park was built by Greek-American philanthropist Ion Perdicaris, who brought back plants from his travels around the world.

 

For its diverse range of greenery, the park has been named a Site of Biologic and Ecologic Interest, giving it a protected environmental status in Morocco. 

 

Take a walk on its well-kept paths and see the Perdicaris Castle, also built by Perdicaris to care for his wife, who was suffering from tuberculosis. It is said that she benefited from the hundreds of eucalyptus trees that can still be found in the park to this day.

 

The park is popular with families having picnics on the weekend, with pushcart vendors selling cotton candy, nuts and other snacks alongside youth beating hand-held drums to catchy Moroccan rhythms.

 

There is a carnival-like atmosphere, and even several giant swings resembling the Instagram-famous ones in Bali. 

 

5. Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules

 

A little over 8km west of Perdicaris is Cap Spartel, the north-westernmost point of mainland Africa and where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. The cape is famous for its 160-year-old lighthouse, which overlooks the Strait of Gibraltar.

 

A little further down the coast are the Caves of Hercules (admission: 60 dirhams), where the mythical hero is said to have rested after his labours. Walk into the caves and see the fascinating rock formations inside. Even more impressive is how the cave, in the shape of the continent of Africa, opens up and looks out towards the Atlantic. 

 

Without a car, you will find it easiest to reach Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules with a taxi from the Grand Socco. The round-trip taxi fare costs about 300 dirhams, and drivers are usually happy to wait for an hour or so while you explore the cave.

 

Travel tips

 

There are several ways to get to Tangier. From Singapore, fly to Tangier Ibn Battouta Airport via Paris. The journey takes about 20 hours. Alternatively, fly to Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport and hop on a two-hour high-speed train to Tangier (str.sg/wCLs).

 

If you are coming and going via Europe, there are multiple hour-long ferry rides from Tarifa, Spain every day. Go to str.sg/wCLn.

 

The old town is easily explored on foot but outside, you may need to get around by taxi.

 

Tangier is home to two types of taxis: the petite blue and the grand white taxi, both of which can be flagged down easily.

 

The petite blue taxis shuttle up to three passengers around town using a metered fare system, while the grand white taxis fit six passengers and can ferry you in and out of town. You will have to negotiate the fare for trips in the grand white taxis. A ride from the airport into town usually costs about 150 dirhams.

 

The best time to visit Tangier is in spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November), when the temperatures are milder (about 20 to 30 deg C) and the summer crowds have not flooded the city. The peak tourist season is July and August.

 

Travellers visiting Morocco have to fill up a health form that is distributed at the airport, though there is no longer a requirement for negative Covid-19 test results or vaccination verification. For more information, go to str.sg/wCLh.

 

Mask-wearing is no longer compulsory.

 

You can buy train tickets to and from Tangier at Tanger Ville Railway Station or online (https://str.sg/wCLD). Tickets are usually available on the same day.

 

Cashless payments have not caught on in smaller shops, so have some local currency with you when shopping.

 

• Rahimah Rashith is a freelance writer and former Straits Times journalist. 

 

 

Source: The Straits Times © Singapore Press Holdings Limited. Reproduced with permission.

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