Irrepressible Carnivals in Germany and around the world

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GERMANY – I once had a business event in Cologne postponed at the last minute.

 

My apologetic caller said: “We’re really sorry, Frau Wong. But the person organising this isn’t a local, and none of us checked the date until too late. But it’s Carnival time in the city, and nobody is going to come in to work. I hope you understand?”

 

Indeed, I do. While Carnival is not extensive all over Germany, it is big in parts of Bavaria.

 

It is also huge in the city of Mainz and its surrounding area, which includes where I live. And it is humongous in the city of Cologne, which lies along the River Rhine.

 

This February, it will likely be colossal in Cologne because celebrations have been repressed for three pandemic years. Significantly, the Committee for the Cologne Carnival (Festkomitee Koelner Karneval) will be celebrating its 200th anniversary. 

 

For such a flamboyant festival, the origins of the European Carnival is serious and spiritual.

 

In many Roman Catholic countries, the period of Lent is a time of penitence and fasting.

 

You give up wine and meat. After all, the Italian words “carne vale” translates as “meat farewell”. Merry-making is postponed in memory of Christ’s fasting in the wilderness.

 

This year, the season of Lent is from Feb 22 to April 6. Before this season of sobering up comes the partying up. The pre-Lent period has become an excuse for eating, drinking and carousing as much as possible. 

 

In Germany, you know Carnival is in the air when bakeries and supermarkets sell doughnuts with lots of icing sugar. Shops put out fancy dress costumes and accessories. Kids go to kindergarten or school in costumes.

 

But Carnival is also an adult preoccupation. It is really a bit surreal to have the woman at the cheese counter sprout rabbit ears or see my son’s school teacher dressed in a doctor’s white coat. 

 

In Cologne, the start of Carnival is marked by the official handing over the keys of the city by the mayor to one Prince Claus III, a carnival character who “takes control” for a few crazy days. The city comes almost to a stop and is jam-packed with tourists, both local and foreign.

 

The Carnival weekend itself is completely activity-filled. Saturday sees a procession of brass bands and men dressed in military costumes, Sunday has a parade featuring children and Monday is crowned with the Rosenmontagszug (Rose Monday Parade).

 

Pre-pandemic, this was an event featuring over 7,000 participants mostly as musical bands or people on horse-drawn floats flinging some 40 tonnes of sweets, 100,000 packets of popcorn and chocolates, and countless bunches of flowers into the crowds.

 

Many of the floats have a satirical theme and carry effigies of politicians or celebrities. There are numerous smaller parades and costume balls after this.

 

I like small town parades. These often feature local fire-fighters, sports clubs and restaurateur associations with their homemade floats. The dedication is admirable – some girl bands will be wearing only sequinned costumes and tights in the cold outdoors.

 

It costs nothing to be a spectator – you just have to show up early enough at the major routes. These routes will be available online but, frankly, just follow the crowds.

 

But if you are more than a spectator and make an effort with the costume, you will certainly warm the hearts of the locals. They will be wearing masks, colourful wigs, mad make-up and body paint.

 

Here is your chance to be a Jedi knight, a movie character or a celebrity. It is like a manga cosplay gathering meets Comic-Con meets Halloween party for everybody.

 

2023’s Carnival schedule for Cologne

 

Feb 16, Weiberfastnacht: A weib is a woman. While people are still coming to work, women are allowed to go around snipping off the ties of their male colleagues.

 

Feb 17, Carnival: Parties, balls, concerts and other private events will take place, some of which might be ticketed. It will help if you understand not only German but also the local dialect to get the jokes.

 

Feb 18, Carnival: Have breakfast or brunch or simply just drink the local beer (called Kolsch) while people-watching at the marquee at the Neumarkt (new market). Numerous Cologne Carnival societies, which are connected with a military tradition, put on shows.

 

Feb 19, Carnival: On Carnival Sunday, community groups and schools will march in a parade in the city centre. Expect colourful and gilded costumes. Sweets and small treats will be distributed to children.

 

Feb 20, Rose Monday Parade: The Rosenmontagszug (Rose Monday Parade) is the highlight of Cologne Carnival. Usually, a million people will pour into the streets to watch the parade. Wear a colourful wig, draw on a fake moustache, put on a clown’s bulbous nose – looking normal is going to feel abnormal.

 

Feb 21, Carnival Tuesday: The nightclubs and bars are likely to be packed. Remember, this is the evening before sombre Ash Wednesday when Catholics are reminded of the mortality of life.

 

Feb 22 (midnight), The Burning of the Nubbel: The Carnival mascot is a large straw doll called the Nubbel. It is set on fire on Tuesday at midnight. His burning symbolises getting rid of all the sins of the previous year.

 

Getting there

 

Fly into Frankfurt. At the airport, take the Intercity Express to Cologne (one hour) or Mainz (30 minutes).

 

Cologne has two major train stations, Koln-Deutz and Koln Hauptbahnhof, where you can easily connect by train to other parts of Germany – or to Amsterdam, Paris and Brussels.

 

What to do and see

 

Besides Carnival, both Mainz and Cologne have plenty of tourist attractions.

 

Mainz has the Gutenberg Museum. Gutenberg was the inventor of the printing machine, one of the most important human inventions.

 

Cologne has Roman ruins and the Gothic Cathedral, a Unesco World Heritage site. The city is a major German media and design centre, hosts many fairs and conferences such as the popular Gamescom, and offers excellent shopping. Its street life is vibrant.

 

Carnivals around the world

 

Brazil

 

The world’s most famous festival is probably the one in Rio de Janeiro (Feb 17 to 25), drawing some two million people each day into the streets, including many samba performers in elaborate costumes doing specially choreographed dances. It will celebrate its 300th anniversary this year since the first Carnival took place in 1723.  

 

Venice

 

The Carnival in Venice (Feb 11 to 21) is associated with masks which have a long tradition. Men were known to dress up as women to enter convents while aristocrats mingled with commoners. Napoleon put a stop to it by ordering a great burning of masks. Today, the masks and the carnival traditions are back and visitors from all over come to see the night procession of boats along the Grand Canal.

 

France

 

I count myself lucky to run, totally unplanned, into one of the prettiest and best scented Carnivals in Europe, the Fete du Citron or the Lemon Festival in Menton (Feb 11 to 26). This is a small town in southern France close to the Italian border. There are funny figures and shapes of animals all made up of oranges and lemons. The fruits decorate every shop window – the bakery, the hairdresser’s, the butcher’s.

 

Singapore

 

As it happens, the Chingay Parade during the festive Chinese New Year period is also a carnival, with all the prerequisite floats, bands and dancers perfoming in front of crowds. It is also organised by clubs and associations that spend months designing, preparing and reheasing for it (this year’s falls on Feb 3 and 4). Now, if only we could get the spectators to dress up as well. 

 

The writer is a Singaporean language professional working in Germany. For her son’s Carnival costumes, she has borrowed or crafted Buzz Lightyear, a pirate, a ninja and Harry Potter. Also a Teletubby – you will be showing your age if you know what that is.  

 

 

Source: The Straits Times © Singapore Press Holdings Limited. Reproduced with permission.

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